Autumn creeps in across the vineyards!

Welcome back to 'the old presbytery' in our little corner of south west France. Autumn is creeping in across the vineyards and the vines now, stripped of their precious harvest, stand resplendent in their golden leafage. At the bottom of the garden the sun sets behind the old log store. Piled high with wood dried in the baking heat of summer, it is the clue to our survival here in the French countryside, when winter temperatures often drop below -14c. 

Inside 'the old presbytery' we welcome the change of seasons, and, just as we basked in the heat of the summer sun, in the mists of Autumn our attention turns to the wood burning stove, where it sits patiently at the heart of the home. During our first winter here in the Charente, we relied, almost totally, on a rather antiquated oil-fired heating system, which battled manfully to heat the large rooms of the presbytery with their high ceilings. Not only did it fail to provide enough heat, but it soon became evident it would have required its own oil refinery to keep it supplied with fuel! We did also, optimistically, light a fire in the huge grate in the living room, which produced an impressive blaze, as it devoured the massive logs we slavishly fed it. Alas, however, our valiant efforts only served to warm the birds nesting on the chimney above, as all the heat went straight up the chimney! 

Finally, observing those who had lived here a lifetime we noticed that everyone heated their homes with wood and that the ritual of stocking the wood store over the summer months provided economical and efficient heat throughout the winter. At last, we had discovered the 'wood burning stove' and it was to transform our lives. Not only did its powerful heat fill the house with ambient warmth, but its flickering flames proved more entertaining than a night in front of the television. 

Now we say, "Roll on, Autumn!", as we close the shutters against the evening chill and share family life around the heart of our home.  There is something primaeval about a living fire that connects us with our ancestors of long ago and warms us like nothing else.

Join me for an 'Apéro' in the French countryside!

So glad you could drop by readers. With the count down to publication of my memoir, 'Bonjour Darling' well under way, why not join me for an 'Apéro' at the old presbytery. You can sample a taste of French country life in Saint-Allier, the fictional name I've given our village, to protect the identity of my dear friends and neighbours.

First of all, let me explain the meaning of the term,'Apéro'.  It is of course the shortened form of the word,'Apéritif ',meaning an alcoholic drink served before a meal. In the French countryside, however, 
the word also describes a way of entertaining guests, involving a choice of drinks and nibbles. It may or may not be followed by the host offering a meal; often guests return to their own homes to dine. It is, therefore, a great way of getting together at the end of a day, relaxing and sharing news with friends and family.

At our Apéro, while we wait for the others to arrive, I can offer you a choice of Pastis for the men, a liqueur flavoured with aniseed, which magically turns milky on the addition of water or, of course, a locally produced Cognac. Ladies, for you, I recommend a Pineau as drunk by all the women in the village, both young and old.  This fortified wine, made almost exclusively here in the Charente, is a rich golden colour and boasts quite an alcoholic kick!

If everyone has a drink now, please make yourselves at home and enjoy the ambiance of our lovely old presbytery!  Still just a little bit shabby, but, I hope you all agree, since the renovations are complete, also just a little bit chic. 

With guests beginning to arrive, it's simply left up to me to introduce a few of the characters you will meet in the book. 'Je vous présente' my neighbour, the handsome Mayor of our village, Monsieur Gilles Charbonnet and his lovely wife, Danielle. Henri Buisson, my neighbour on the other side, who in his mid-forties is proud to present his twenty-three year old trophy wife, Chantal and their daughter, Amélie. Pierre Junot can't fail to impress you with his American English, learnt during his service in the French navy - Ladies prepare to be impressed by his movie star good looks and immaculate quiff! And how could I forget the flamboyant Joyce, who, representing the ex-pat community, greets both French and English with a hearty, 'Bonjour, Darling!', which she reckons keeps everyone happy!

Well folks, I'll leave you to mingle, until the book is finally published, when I invite you to discover how two Irish people give up everything, for a second chance of happiness in the French countryside, only to discover that laughter is the best medicine under the sun!

Saint-Emilion, at the heart of French country life!

Welcome back, readers! So glad you dropped by for another taste of French country life. Today, I invite you to join me on a short trip, just 50 minutes from our village, to the beautiful medieval town of Saint-Emilion. Before we arrive, I thought it might be helpful to give you a quick potted history of this amazing place, at the heart of one of the most famous wine producing regions in the world.

Entrance to L'Eglise Monolithe

As the guide books tell us, the first human settlements around Saint-Emilion can be traced back to between 35,000 and 10,000 BC. It wasn't until the Roman occupation began in 27 BC, however, that the first vines were planted around the town. Christian monasteries and churches began to appear at the beginning of the 7th century, as the region was on the pilgrims' route to Santiago de Compostela and from the 11th century onwards the region experienced great prosperity. During the course of the Hundred Years War, Saint-Emilion changed hands many times between the English and French, finally becoming permanently French in 1453. The town remained fortified until the end of the 18th century when the fortifications were dismantled, all of which had an adverse effect on the vineyards. It was not until 1853 that Saint-Emilion started to recover due to the success of the vineyards, which now produced wine recognised across the world as exceptional.


Driving through the valley towards Saint-Emilion, we get our first glimpse of the town clinging to the hillside overlooking the vineyards. One writer describes it, as being built with solid ochre limestone extracted from the kilometres of local underground galleries, the result being a medieval village whose subtle harmony of warm colours, varies in shade with the intensity of light as the day progresses. It is interesting to note at this point that Saint-Emilion is a 'World Heritage Site', famous for its catacombs under the town and resplendent in its position high above the Dordogne Valley.

Steep cobbled streets of St Emilion

As visitors we can discover the amazing 'Eglise Monolithe', whose impressive belfry peaks 133 metres above the roofs of Saint-Emilion. Below, hewn into the rock, this troglodyte chapel is the oldest building in the village, housing the burial place of Saint Emilion himself, the monk after whom the town is named, whose followers began producing wine here commercially in the 8th century. Exploring the steep winding, cobbled streets, known locally as tertres, we will discover fascinating houses, Romanesque remains and amongst the many wine outlets offering tastings, there are art galleries and craft shops galore.

Our trip to Saint-Emilion would not be complete, however, without mentioning the wine industry. Much of the local wine is produced at the many Chateaux surrounding the town. The majority of these will offer wine tasting and guided tours of the vineyards providing the visitor with a fascinating glimpse into the world of viticulture. You will discover the main grape varieties of the region to be Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a sprinkling of Cabernet Sauvignon. I won't go any further into the actual wines produced, in this post, but for those with an interest in wine who wish to know more, I recommend checking out ;
http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/st-emilion/

Chateau Canon St Emilion

As we take our leave of this magical place, I would add for those wishing to discover Saint-Emilion for themselves, the town boasts a wide selection of restaurants and hotels offering wonderful hospitality to the traveller.

Well, readers, I hope I have whetted your appetite for this beautiful historical town, that has a very special place in my heart. Someday soon, you too may watch the sunset over the Dordogne Valley and from within the ramparts of  Saint-Emilion, raise a toast to some of the best wine in the world!

The importance of the TGV to French country life!

Welcome to the third post, in this series based around village life in south west France. Today, I want to set aside a little time to share with you my thoughts on the TGV (Train `a Grande Vitesse), or in English, the high speed train. Discussing what a life line it can be for those choosing to relocate to the French countryside. 

When we found and fell in love with the 'old presbytery', I must admit the proximity of our village to a train station on the TGV line was something to which we hadn't given a lot of thought. It was only after signing on the dotted line, as we began to plan our move to France, we realised the TGV station at Angouleme was only 30 minutes away. Simply, a stroke of luck!

And so it transpired, from the start of our French adventure, that the station at Angouleme would play a major role in our new life. It began one dark rainy night in November, when at 9pm precisely (as the TGV is almost always on time), we stumbled onto the platform, blinking through the station lights to a whole new world that awaited us. Little did we know that evening, this same platform would set the scene for so many happy encounters through the coming years. There would be hugs and kisses as a steady stream of loved ones emerged through the crowds to greet us on their regular visits, not to mention our own occasional trips to Paris. On these rare, but none the less exciting trips, my husband and I would exchange our country life for the bright lights of Paris. You can read about one of these trips, if you would be interested, in my post entitled,  'Stepping Out Of My Empty Nest, Into The Lights Of Paris', written back in September 2012.

The train station also holds another happy memory for me, as it was the destination for my first solo car trip in France. Driving  into the city to collect my daughter from the train, I remember the feeling of achievement as I set out from our village. Here I was in a foreign land, driving on the opposite side of the road, in a car with a gear stick on the right, while negotiating round-a-bouts and underground tunnels. Arriving at the station, as I chatted to the car park attendant in French, I got such a buzz; here I was at last living in a foreign land and feeling at home. Picking my daughter up from the train, we sped home through the French countryside and I could tell, she too, was proud of her mum!

The TGV is 30 years old now and provides France with a fast, clean and efficient service, cutting down travel time between major cities dramatically, as it reaches speeds of up 200 miles an hour, with an excellent safety record. French citizens and expats alike can enjoy connections all over France and across Europe with journeys like Paris to Marseille only taking 3 hours and 5 minutes. I have included a map here showing current lines and both new and imminent ones. You will note that LGV refers to 'ligne `a grande vitesse' or high speed lines. Perhaps food for thought when you are planning your next trip to France or looking to relocate to the French countryside.

To conclude this post, I would suggest to any of you out there thinking about choosing a place to live in the France, bear in mind the importance of being near a branch of the TGV.  There are still areas of central France where the TGV doesn't operate and it can add to a feeling of isolation, but then again, perhaps that's just what you're looking for!

My Love Affair with France!

Bienvenus, mes amis! Welcome back, everyone. Apologies for a longer than normal interval between posts, but sometimes life just gets in the way. This particular upheaval, involved moving all my books to a new venue and it was during this mammoth task, I found myself sitting on the floor in the middle of a pile of packing cases, holding the book that initially sparked my love affair with France.

Carol Drinkwater is the author of a trilogy of books, The Olive Farm, The Olive Season, The Olive harvest and later, Return to the Olive Farm. All of which I consumed voraciously, but the crowning glory of my enjoyment of Carol's works, is the treasured book I hold in my hands today. The Illustrated Olive Farm, a companion to her best selling series. What a joy, after reading of this beautiful life changing place, that the author should be so generous as to share with her readers this collection of newly written prose and pictures, putting flesh to the bones of what we, the reader, can only have imagined.

Inspired by Carol's writing of her love affair with the handsome French film and television  producer, Michel and their discovery together, of an old villa, high in the hills above the bay of Cannes, I was later to follow in her footsteps and purchase the old presbytery, of which you are perhaps now familiar, from my recent blogposts.

If you dream of a life in the South of France, I highly recommend that you get hold of Carol's books. She writes beautifully, with a great love of nature that flows effortlessly from her pen. Originally an actor, you may remember her from her role as Helen Herriot in the television series, 'All Creatures Great and Small'. It was after she met her husband, Michel,who proposed over dinner on their first date that her life was to drift further away from acting.

Michel invited her to join him in the south of France, where he was attending the Cannes film festival. While he was caught up in the hurly burly of the festival, Carol passed her time swimming, sauntering the streets of the old town, daydreaming and gazing in local estate agents' windows. It had always been her dream to live by the sea.  Little did she know, she was about to discover the house of her dreams, that would change her life forever.

The villa, built by Italians at the turn of the century was named 'Appassionata', a musical term meaning, 'with passion'. Sitting high above the bay of Cannes, its terraced slopes fell steeply towards the Mediterranean. An old olive farm, well off the beaten track, it was completely overgrown and lay derelict, but Carol and Michel fell in love with its faded grandeur. Leaving England and setting up life with the man she loved, her story is filled with passion, for the handsome Frenchman, a beautiful old olive farm and the Provencal life in all its splendour. We follow her through an evolution that sees her become a best selling author, film maker and a successful olive producer.

Readers, I urge you to dive into this trilogy and surface in the glittering sun of the Mediterranean. It could change your life forever, the way it changed mine!

Appassionata 

The old presbytery

        

Food and French Country Life!

Me on the steps of 'The Old Presbytery'

Hi everybody, welcome back to a taste of village life in the Charente region of south west France. I am really looking forward to sharing with you my passion for this beautiful corner of France.

This week I thought we would look at food. The subject seemed an obvious choice, as not long after moving here, I realised while talking to a French person, no matter what the subject, the conversation would always come back to food! Yes, it is not a myth; the French are passionate about food. 

It is indeed through food that our neighbours reached out the hand of friendship to us in so many ways. Francoise and Jacques, an elderly couple from the village, had the most wonderful potager (vegetable garden). I saw them there each morning when I opened the shutters and Jacques would still be there in the evening, when the church bell called him in for aperitifs at seven. During the growing season, they often had more than they needed and Francoise would appear at the door and present me with a basket full of the most delicious tasting tomatoes, broad beans or whatever happened to be in season. 

I remember a lovely afternoon shortly after I got to know her, when she took me down to her cellar. It was like stepping back in time. Francoise preserved food as they have done in the Charente for years, bottling it in Eau de Vie, (a clear colourless brandy made by fermentation and double distillation of grapes). Not only fruit, but she showed me glass jars of Foie Gras and something called Civet de Lapin, which turned out to be jugged rabbit. She went on to explain she had preserved the Civet about thirteen years earlier and described

how the flavour would improve with keeping. It was our great honour to be served this ancient stew a few weeks later for Sunday lunch with the family. Yes, I did feel a little nervous tucking into something that was celebrating its thirteenth birthday, but I have to agree with Francoise that the flavour was out of this world.

In the next village, a weekly street market was held throughout the year. This provided us with the opportunity to sample a wide range of different specialities from around the Poitou-Charente region. It is worth pointing out that some of the best sea food in France comes from the Atlantic coast of our department, which is famous for its oysters and muscles. One of the best day trips I can remember was to La Rochelle on the coast, where I enjoyed the perfect 'Moules Frites' (muscles and chips) in a little restaurant overlooking the harbour, complemented beautifully by the smell of the Atlantic ocean.

Finally, I couldn't finish this chapter on food without mentioning my favourite restaurant, 'Chateau des Tallyrand' in the small town of Chalais.  The setting for this restaurant is within the castle itself, approached by its original drawbridge. The magic continues inside with the reception one gets from the host, a Monsieur Jean-Louis Bruneau. Jean-Louis welcomes each guest personally and remembering names and faces, he manages to make each guest feel special for the evening. Behind the scenes, he presides over a professional kitchen with talented chefs, creating delicious food in the true French style, utilising local, fresh and seasonal produce. 

I hope you have enjoyed this look at French country food in my region and perhaps someday, if you read the book, it will help provide the perfect backdrop. In the meantime, I look forward to the next time we meet, when I will introduce you to more aspects of our life in France and living the dream!

Bienvenue! Welcome to French country life.

Hi, everyone! Welcome to the first in this series of posts from the Charente region of southwest France. Over the next months, I look forward to sharing with you my experience of life in a small French village, at the heart of this beautiful region. As you can see from the map to the right, the Poitou-Charentes area is divided into four separate departments. In the south of the region you have Charente-Maritime - the coastal area to the west and further inland La Charente - the gently undulating hilly area where we made our home. If you look closely at the map, to the left of the word Charente, you can just make out the name of Angouleme, the large fortress town, which is the capital of this department. The old presbytery where our story is set, is situated in a little village 30 minutes to the south of here.

Me & Murphy my dog

One of the reasons we chose this part of France was the climate. It boasts some of the mildest and sunniest weather in the country, after the Mediterranean coastal area of the south. Around our village the countryside is vast, the Poitou-Charentes region itself covering some 10,000 square miles. The main crops in the rolling fields are sunflowers and maize, with some vineyards mostly growing grapes for the famous Pineau des Charentes. This is an aperitif created almost exclusively in the Charentes. It is a fortified wine made from a blend of lightly fermented grape must and Cognac  eau-de-vie; a rich golden aperitif with quite a kick. It didn't take us long to acquire a taste for it!

Surrounded by such beautiful countryside, it is not surprising that the 'Randonnée' is the most popular form of recreation, with Petanque or Boules a close second. It is basically a cross-country hike, often organised by the village walking club or just a group of friends. We had only moved in to the presbytery about a month, when the door bell rang and I was greeted by a group of French ladies of a certain age, dressed in sturdy walking shoes and brandishing long hiking sticks. They had kindly called to ask me to join them on the weekly Randonnée, which met each Wednesday in the village square. Through their kindness, I soon got to know my neighbours and improve my French, (although I have to say, at first, walking and talking French was a tall order and I often returned exhausted). It was, however, the most wonderful way to discover the countryside.  For the first time in my life, I walked alongside sunflowers well over six feet tall, with heads the size of huge dinner plates and marvelled how they all turned towards the sun, as it journeyed across the clear blue sky.

Coming from a small country like Ireland, I soon discovered the size of France and the vast openness of the countryside would be a wonderfully liberating part of my new adventure, which was to blossom into a life long love affair with this beautiful place. In the months ahead I look forward to sharing it with you.